Sunday, November 28, 2010

My Attempt at an Unbiased Comparison Between Korea & Turkey

Since I have done two study abroad programs back to back, one at Yonsei University in Seoul, South Korea, and the other at Bilkent University in Ankara, Turkey I have decided I should compare the two. Especially because the more I near the end of my term at Bilkent, the more I find myself reflecting upon my experiences and how they have differed, and how they have related. While my circumstances in both places where quite different, I attempt to provide an unbiased comparison of the two, but most likely my evaluation will be biased toward Korea since I am still in Turkey, and my experience in Korea has become my reminiscent past.

Yonsei University, Seoul
I participated in a summer long program where I went to school 7 hours a day four days a week. It was an intensified summer school program that was actually in some ways harder and busier than my life in Davis, except for the fact I did not have a job or other obligations in Seoul. Yonsei is a private school, located in Seoul, the capital of South Korea, near an area with exceptional night-life. I lived in the dorms, which I complained about a lot, but overall it was not so bad. It was more the fact I was not used to living in the dorms period--however my roommate was great and we had a lot of fun. The program I was in was part of about 2000 international students, which more than 200 were from California alone, and others also came from the East Coast and various places. So on whole, there were a lot of Americans. This wasn't always good because I actually found myself speaking less Korean than I did back in Davis in my economics classes. It was a lot of fun though. Most of the exchange students were some type of Asian. There were a lot of Korean Americans or Koreans, but also a lot of Chinese, Vietnamese, etc. The selection of food in Seoul was amazing, as always. Mainly a lot of Asian food, but still a good range. It was very cheap for the most part, and one could easily spend only about $5 for dinner. The desserts were fabulous, and shopping was good and affordable. The exchange rate wasn't as good as it had been in the past, but this sort of thing is to be expected given America's economic situation. One complaint I did have was the lack of fruit available to me. I ate a lot of vegetables, and a good amount of seafood as well, but fruits were not readily available, and the market was far from my dorm. Also because I lived in the dorms I ate out just about every day, something I wasn't really accustomed too.

Bilkent University, Ankara, Turkey
Bilkent is also a private school, also located in the capital of Turkey. However, this capital is not nearly as interesting as Seoul. Like many capitals in America, Ankara is very much a government city. It does have a high population of students, with more than ten universities present in Ankara, but at the same time it is still not very lively. Ankara the city itself is also highly polluted, one of the most polluted cities in all of history actually. This made my life not so enjoyable, especially because I always walked home smelling like smoke or car fumes. (People in Turkey burn coal--politicians actually hand out free coal to get the poor to vote for them in elections. A major problem.) It made running outside essentially impossible. Bilkent was very different than Yonsei. When I arrived at Bilkent no one in the dorms spoke English! The dorms were also very strange and had a very unfriendly vibe. I stayed in the dorms one week and moved out as fast I could. The housing situation was very confusing, but I managed to find a flat with three other girls. However one turned out to be insane, and it made the first month in Ankara very difficult and stressful, which is where much of my woe came from. Contrary to popular belief, people at Bilkent don't really speak English, and especially not that well.

Moving out was great, but Bilkent, unlike Yonsei, was far from the main part of the city. Ankara is a big city that doesn't have the best public transit connections, but there is a bus that goes from my house to my University for free. School here was so much easier than Davis, and I found myself with literally enough time to travel every weekend. Sometimes I stayed in Ankara though, but most weekends I did that I regretted it, but I did have some good times. There are very few Asian people in Bilkent. I can count the number of Asians on two hands easily. There are actually more than I thought there would be though--I expected none. In terms of food selection, if you want Asian food you are basically out of luck. There are a few restaurants, but not of the quality I expect and have grown accustomed to, so I just give up. I made Asian food for my roommates and friends once, but it is very difficult because the ingredients are quite lacking. Luckily for me I have a fantastic Punjabi roommate who can cook excellent Indian food. Turkish food is good, but a bit too heavy. The food on campus really is quite horrible, and rather overpriced, but I recently found a great salad bar. (If only I had found it three months ago!) In terms of food though, Turkey is quite cheap for fruits and vegetables, and I eat at home a lot--perhaps too much. Eating out is not as cheap as I thought it would be though, especially for restaurants. There is some cheap doner and the like, but kebabs really are not so cheap, at least in comparison to what I used to eat in Korea. One great thing about Turkey has been how easily I have been able to travel all over for cheap. Turkey is a big country with a lot of different things to see. Enough said on that...you can see the other blogs for details.

Bias
I already spoke Korean decently before coming to Korea, where as my Turkish was quite poor. This was not my first time in Korea either, and I already had quite a few friends in Korea. I had been to Yonsei before traveling on a previous trip, so I already knew my surroundings of the campus and my surroundings in Seoul. Furthermore I was already fairly well adjusted to Asian culture because that is the culture I have immersed myself in since college, and that is the culture I grew up in for the most part. While I did have some background with Turkey, Turkish, and the culture, I was still very much a NOOB.

Korea vs Turkey
Both countries are very hot in summer, but Korea is very humid, and Turkey is very dry. Similarly both have pollution problems, but Turkey's is much worse, especially Ankara. The terrain of both countries is also very hilly. Korea however is a much smaller country than Turkey, but also more densely populated. Turkey is much more of a tourist attraction than Korea. Turkey also has a much higher geni coefficient, meaning there is greater existence of inequality. Both began in similar economic conditions, but the GDP per capita income of Korea is about three times that of Turkey.

Though Turkey has many rich and privileged, especially with the development of the new middle class in Istanbul, it's GDP per capita income is barely above the international standard of a developing country. The reason for this is how many people are living below the poverty line in gecikondu, which are illegal housing sites that are built without contracts or formal building plans. There is much debate around the existence of these housing--the more Turkey attempts to become a global nation, and the more Istanbul becomes a global city under the efforts of politicians in Turkey that seek to increase tourism and derive profit from the land value of these areas under the commodification of land, the more the gecikondu becomes condemned. The housing get destroyed and the people, many immigrants from the South or the East, become displaced and out of luck.

Furthermore, although Istanbul attempts to become a "global city," it still has far to come. The infrastructure is still lacking. The phone system and internet system is still highly underdeveloped and weak. The internet here has been highly unreliable and quote slow, where as Korea has some of the fastest internet in the world, partly because of their computer gaming industry which developed in light of the competition with Japan's gaming systems such as Sony and Nintendo. The public transit in Turkey is also highly confusing and underdeveloped. While Turkey has a great and affordable private bus system (although it is sometimes hectic and has crashes at times) with extensive networks, its public transit is subpar. The bus systems are confusing and underpublished, and the lack of development on the rail and subway system is substandard, but also comparable to that of America (the West Coast at least). However, currently Istanbul is working on improving and expanding upon there rail system so it is a start. Korea on the other hand has an extensive rail and subway system, most of which was built under Japanese occupation. The shipping and mailing system in Turkey is also lacking--but they are a bigger country than Korea, and they don't have as much of an importing/exporting infrastructure as Korea.

Further Comparison
Both countries smoke a lot. More than I would like. More so in Turkey though. Both countries also drink a lot, but Turkey does not have a culture of getting drunk, and it is somewhat unacceptable to be drunk in public--more so or less so depending on how conservative the area is. Both countries have been under tense political conditions lately, both when I have been there. Turkey suffers domestic strife because it is so diverse and has many different minorities, many of which feel underrepresented. Korea on the other hand suffers from the conflict with North Korea. I never once felt unsafe in either country though--I always felt safer than I would feel in America most times actually.

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Kurban Bayram

So I spent my Bayram in Istanbul. It was surprisingly nice. Originally I really did not want to spend it there originally because I had already been 3 times, and I have to go once more for my flight home. However, I kept changing my plans and things got too last minute, and before I knew it I wasn't able to even get tickets from Ankara to the Mediterranean anymore, so basically all I could realistically do was visit my friend and his family in Istanbul. This turned out to be delightful though. I left with my roommates and spent two nights in Istanbul near Sultanahmet. We did Taksim at night and everything. I have never seen the otogar so crowded though! It was insane! Even the Metro to the Otogar was jam-packed!




Before I left to Istanbul I did Asian cooking night at my friends' house. It was so lovely! One of our friends from Hong Kong who's dad is a chef in Hong Kong made really good food. I made okonomiyaki. It wasn't quite as good as I normally do, but I didn't even have seaweed, and the cabbage here is really weird/low quality! It was fun though! Our Danish friend also made a banana dessert he learned in Thailand. It was delicious. It was really nice to do some Asian stuff again, but once again it made me miss Davis/Asia.



oh yeah...we treated ourselves to a waffle too!

...we finally tried the really authentic restaurant in Bahcheli! They have AMAZING complimentary sides! ...and helva with dondurma for like 2TL!


I also went to the movies with one of my friends and roommates hoping to watch Harry Potter, but it turned out to not be out yet (like I thought). We ended up watching Saw 3D--really Saw 4--instead. Oh it was disgusting! There was a reason why I never saw the others! It freaked me out for a few days. At least we had BC00l Dondurma from Burger King and Kunufe though! :) Yum!


So in Istanbul we bought some Ottoman hats, the kind the Dondurma man wears, and we wore them around the bazaar and around Istanbul, and surprisingly all the street vendors stopped harassing us for once. --I think they were afraid of us! We had a nice time shopping at the grand bazaar though. Bargaining is always fun, and it's nice to see the surprised looks on the vendors faces when we bargain in Turkish. We got a bunch of Turkish eyes at a cheap non-touristie shop too. We accidentally wandered into the non-tourist part of Istanbul, but it was really interesting.

You know you are in a legit area when you see the bread man!
Turkey has a lot of disturbing mannequins..


interesting...


The hostel we stayed in was REALLY horrible. It had the worst Turkish Breakfast ever and it only let us have one cup of tea. The guy at the front desk asked to see our passports, but we only had residency permits, and he kept asking us all these weird questions. It was kind of weird. The view from the hostel was nice though.

We went to a place called Burger Turk, which was essentially Turkish Burger King. That was interesting. I tried Fries with Wine at the pier. Not the classiest thing I have ever done, but it tasted good at the time. Later that night my roommate and I tried to order McTavuk at McDonalds (McChicken), but the guy didn't understand and thought we were crazy. We were convinced they had it after one of our Pakistani friends told us they did, so we thought it was worth a shot.


We did the grand Bazaar for a bit too...
got scarves?





BAYRAM!
Tuesday was the first day of Bayram. I rode the ferry to Kadakoy and took a bus to the part of the Anatolian side where my friend lives. On this day of Bayram you travel around to see the relatives, and this is also the day that you can sacrifice the sheep. Bayram means feast/holiday in Turkish, and this Bayram is to celebrate Abraham's sacrifice, so in respect for that you are supposed to buy a sheep and slaughter it in the name of god. You take part of the meat and use it for yourself, but hand most of it out to the poor. The main function of this Bayram is seeing family and helping the poor. I went with my friend's mom and grandmother to go pick out the sheep, but the prices were very high this year. I guess there was a shortage of sheep and what was about 400TL for a sheep last year was 600TL this year. It was interesting to watch the process and the bargaining. Some people still cut the sheep themselves, but we went to a place where they do it for us. The slaughtering of the sheep is considered a man's job.


We went to many different relatives houses. Traditionally on the first day you just go visit your parents, but my friend's grandparents were already at their house, and the other grandparents were far away visiting other relatives on holiday. Apparently the tradition of Bayram is changing. It is supposed to be a religious thing about family, but more and more Turkish people are working a lot, and they prefer to use this 9 day holiday as their own personal vacation time and travel instead of visiting family. Because of this we visited some great aunts and uncles instead. It was really interesting to see the different Turkish houses. At each house we had many traditional sweets and candies. It was so good but filling. At one house I even had traditional Mardin food because my friend's dad is from Mardin. We had real çiğ köfte for once with real raw meat (unlike the normal vendors)! Everything was so good, and everyone was so warm in their greetings. It sort of made me miss my own family, especially because Thanksgiving is so near.


The second day people came and visited us. We served desserts. My friends mom made a traditional pumpkin dessert. We also visited with the neighbors.

The third day we can travel, but the weather was bad so we did not. Instead we handed food out to the poor. We went to a real gecikondo (ghetto) and gave meat to some poor people. My friend's mom visits there every year. I really liked this tradition of giving back. My friends dad doesn't really like the whole concept of the slaughter though. Instead he believes it is better to help other ways like donate to help pay for someone's education etc.



I also helped make this traditional food from Mardin. I forget the name...


The entire bayram was essentially eating and visiting with people. By the end of the holiday I felt fat. The last day I met up with my roommate though and we walked all over Istanbul. I burned those calories right off! :) Istanbul has hills like no other (well I guess Korea is comparable). It was so tiring--especially the one to Taksim! It was great exercise though.


We really accomplished a lot together that day. I had my favorite fish sandwich with freshly cooked/caught fish from the bridge. We bought two giant Turkish flags from a street vendor for a good price. It was awesome! We had really been wanting them, but we were stuck carrying them around for the rest of the day, but it was completely worth it! :) We actually got discounts at some places for having them. A lot of Turkish people were really confused/surprised/impressed. It made for interesting conversation at least.


We did all 3 bazaars--the grand bazaar, the textile bazaar, and the spice bazaar.
lokum!


We also managed to finally go to Sultanahmet. That is really hard because it is occupied so often for call of prayer. You really have to be patient. It is so magnificent though, it's really worth waiting for.



I also got a leather jacket! Mission accomplished. I even got a lower price because the guy selling it thought my roommate was beautiful and asked her if she would go on a date with him if he lowered the price. We never met up with him like he wanted, but at least I got a good price! The power of being a woman sometimes.....I guess it all balances out. Thank god something works our way with the amount we get harassed here!